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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
(For American
& Metric Cycle Engines)
(Autos don’t
have these problems but contact ET if you have questions)
Q1. There are now
several "KrankVent" type valves on the market. How is the
ET KrankVent different?
A1.
You know when something works when everyone wants to copy
it. Well, in this case there is a difference. It took
ET-Performance over four years to come up with a better
mousetrap (valve) after trying everything under the sun. The
other valves all use umbrella valves or a valve that is
constrained in some manner. Now these valves have to operate
in tough conditions of high heat, oil, water, acids, and
respond to pressure differentials that occur over 50 times a
second at 3000 RPM. No other valve can stand this constant
torture. Below are shown the valves from a couple of these
crank case valves:
Note
that the three on the left are identical in appearance. Some
manufacturers use better materials for the umbrella valves,
but they will eventually fail and die. Besides, head
breathers already have two umbrella valves that don't work
... why add a third? The KrankVent valve material is the
same material used in the diaphragms of pressure regulators
used to control the flow of coolant in nuclear reactors! In
other words, it cannot fail or there will be a meltdown. In
years of operation in race conditions, we have not observed
any sign of wear. Gasoline, oil, alcohol, solvents, etc.,
will not harm the valve material. The KrankVent will work
totally submerged in liquid, in any orientation, and is self
cleaning. Finally, the KrankVent is guaranteed forever to
the original owner. Now that is quite a difference!
Q2.
Isn't the KrankVent just an expensive PCV valve?
A2.
There is a difference. The KrankVent has been granted a
Patent for a PCV valve for any internal combustion engine,
but the similarity ends there. The KrankVent claims include
the unique property of releasing crank case pressure and
producing, and maintaining, a vacuum in the crank
case. This is done with a unique Flow Controlled One-Way
Valve that uses aerodynamic principles to move the valve in
and out of position. Conventional PCV valves use reed,
flapper, umbrella, ball-check, springs, etc., to close and
restrain the valve. These valves soon fatigue and fail as
they get cycled 50 to 100 times a second at 3000 RPM plus.
Go to any auto store and try conventional PCV valves for
yourself. If the valves do work in the beginning, they soon
fail. This is true for the umbrella valves in the heads of
Harley Davidson’s®
as well as other imitation "KrankVents".
Q3.
I put a KrankVent on and oil still blows from the engine!
What's wrong?
A3.
If you have a crank case timed breather (Bottom Breather),
there are several things that need to be checked as noted in
the instructions. First, the engine must be airtight in
order to maintain the vacuum. Loose oil tank caps and fat
pushrods rubbing the pushrod tubes with a high lift cam are
often overlooked. A Kinked hose between the engine and
KrankVent, or using too soft a hose that collapses under a
vacuum is another area to check. Some installers have
connected the KV to the oil tank breather line or even the
transmission breather -- these won't work! "Head
Breathers" can check the above plus have additional
problems. The umbrella valves in the heads, if they work in
the beginning, usually fail quickly. The new KrankVent Kits
for different applications have special KrankVents and
instructions for each application, and will solve the 99% of
the problems -- follow the instructions. For the remaining
1% remove the umbrella valves so they do not interfere with
the KrankVent operation.
Q4.
Do I need a filter on the end of the KrankVent?
A4.
No, not if properly installed. Remember, crank case pressure
goes out but not back in, as it does with just a hose on the
breather. The exception would be if riding in dusty
conditions. The filter will keep stuff out of the KrankVent.
Q5.
Sometimes the engine dumps oil after sitting for a few days
or more. Why?
A5.
The oil pump check valve that keeps oil in the tank from
draining into the engine when not running is leaking.
Replace or fix it or put a can under it when starting for
the first time after sitting.
Q6.
After a hard, high-speed ride I notice there is a mist
around the exit of the KrankVent. What's going on?
A6.
This is tougher to answer, but here is what I believe is
happening. First, the engine must exit a small amount of
air/oil while running to compensate for engine blowby, air
leaks, etc., depending on how tight the engine is. However,
while riding hard or on a dyno pull, often the throttle is
shut off quickly, manifold and combustion chamber vacuum
goes way up, and piston rings can "break seal" and start to
flutter momentarily. When this happens, combustion pressures
get past the rings, into the crank case, and momentarily
blow out the breather. However, the KrankVent greatly
reduces this effect by quickly restoring the vacuum and ring
seal. If you don't believe this, take the KrankVent off and
do a hard dyno pull!
Q7.
I am running over 100 cubic inches. Should I install two
KrankVents, one at the head breather ports and one at the
crank case breather?
A7.
No, connecting KrankVents to the crank case AND head
breather ports is NEVER required. The reason is that once
the pistons move down and expel the crank case air, the
KrankVent valve closes as soon as the pistons start upward.
From that point on, only high pressure crank case pulses
escapes through the KrankVent, so it does not have to have a
large volume capacity. This assumes that you have a real
"tight" engine that does not let air in, right? If you can,
hook up a vacuum pump to the timing inspection hole and,
with the engine off, listen for vacuum leaks. You might be
surprised! If you have both breather options available,
block off the head breather ports and only use the crank
case breather! After all, that’s where the pressure is
generated!
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